Onan 6.5nh-3cr/16004p Wiring Control Box (2024)

hi and thanks in advance
6.5NH-3CR/16004P
J803532518

used it in 97 for power and put about 400 hrs on it it was supposed to have 850 on it when i bought it. used very little since then two days ago i jumped the fuel pump and coil all wires taped so no shorts using a old ford solenoid it started up and made good power put about 15 amps on it and all good so my big problem is all the loose wires that went to the correct solenoid that i don't have need hooked up they all have little numbers a letter but i can not find a diagram with those on it i SO
1 correct solenoid that will work part number
2 wiring schematic for star relay
3 a new start stop switch
4 how many hours should it run i changed the oil every 100 hrs and when i stored it
and is there any thing else i should do? for maintnace

Re: 6.5nh-3cr/16004p wiring control box

Download the manuals: http://www.twinslan.net/~n0nas/manuals/onan/

900-0337 service
940-0223 parts
940-0222 parts
900-0186 wiring diagrams

Your wiring diagram number is 611-1146 on page 64 of the wiring diagrams manual.

Re: 6.5nh-3cr/16004p wiring control box

in another post I described how to use an old ford solenoid
changes in bold on the "ladder" diagram.

the traditional [59 T-bird] ford solenoid coil is wired to the mount [gnd] and the small start terminal.
the other small terminal is connected to bat. when energized and is used as an ignition resistor bypass.

to use such a solenoid as K1 on a NH [for example] use the start relay [K2] output to power the ford solenoid
and the ford solenoid ignition resistor bypass terminal for cranking duration power to the coil and pump
[the line formerly connected to the start relay output]
an inline fuse might be a nice addition as this solenoid terminal has no protection.
the original Onan solenoid coil line from the start switch [and start relay coil] is unused and gets taped off

Re: 6.5nh-3cr/16004p wiring control box

the wiring diagram i get on screen but i don't see the id's that are on the wire's so i don't have to trace all the wires back to their source it's still all bundled from the factory and they are all white but they do have little id's printed on the end
thanks

Re: 6.5nh-3cr/16004p wiring control box

armandh & kevin thanks i have ordered a solenoid but the run relay is bad are both relays the same and would this work for both thanks again i am dustin off brain parts not used in thirty years

whoops 5-Pin 80A 12V Red Copper SPDT Relay

Resurrecting this thread.
I just bought a 6.5 NH. Out of a motorhome. It's the 6.5NH/3cr16004p I think. (haven't got it near me at the moment.) I decoded the serial number and it's a 1983 model.

Previous owner removed it from the m.h., and proceeded to leave the carb open to the skies, and it got rained in.

Pulled the heads, got all the gunk out of the cylinders, honed them a little and all that remains is a little discoloration of the bottom of the cylinder walls.

It was wired for remote start. The plug and a short bit of the 4 conductor wire remain.. but I unplugged that. On the front of the generator control panel there is the stop/start rocker switch, and below that are 2 tubular glass fuses (they're good) and over on the side of the panel box are a couple of circuit breakers. Everything inside the control panel box is fine... a little dusty, but no evidence of any intruders in the past. As far as inside the generator end bell, haven't opened that up, yet. I don't think it was setting anywhere where mice would have got in there.

Where is the "ON" switch? Would that have been contained in the remote switch panel? I've found the ignition wiring schematic 611-1127 and saved it for reference.

So, when I try to start it I am not getting any spark. I pulled the cover off of the points and looked at all that. Can't see that good, but they open and close, and when I test probe them... when the points make, it goes to ground like it's supposed to. I didn't check the cap on the points assembly, but I did try to test the one mounted beside the coil, but didn't have much luck getting a reading. I don't like digital v.o.m's. Tomorrow I'll grab an analog Simpson meter and try again.

My battery isn't much... I check for voltage at the + side of the coil.. .and it drops to about 6 volts while trying to start. That's not good, I know.

Tomorrow I will take a hot battery up and give it another try and see if I can get some fire from those plugs.

JoeE. said:

Resurrecting this thread.
I just bought a 6.5 NH. Out of a motorhome. It's the 6.5NH/3cr16004p I think. (haven't got it near me at the moment.) I decoded the serial number and it's a 1983 model.

Where is the "ON" switch? Would that have been contained in the remote switch panel? I've found the ignition wiring schematic 611-1127 and saved it for reference.

So, when I try to start it I am not getting any spark. I pulled the cover off of the points and looked at all that. Can't see that good, but they open and close, and when I test probe them... when the points make, it goes to ground like it's supposed to. I didn't check the cap on the points assembly, but I did try to test the one mounted beside the coil, but didn't have much luck getting a reading. I don't like digital v.o.m's. Tomorrow I'll grab an analog Simpson meter and try again.

My battery isn't much... I check for voltage at the + side of the coil.. .and it drops to about 6 volts while trying to start. That's not good, I know.

Tomorrow I will take a hot battery up and give it another try and see if I can get some fire from those plugs.

Click to expand...

The cap beside the coil is for RFI suppression, would only affect the running if it was shorted. The cap at the points, otoh, is absolutely necessary - but do try with a much better battery first and foremost.

There is no 'ON' switch per se - You hold the 'start' switch to start, it energizes the start solenoid and a 'start' relay that provides power to ignition and fuel pump, the engine cranks and starts. Once it's running, generating and has oil pressure, it latches another 'run' relay that provides power to ignition and fuel pump, and cuts power to start solenoid, you release the start switch, and the genset will continue running as long as it has fuel, oil pressure, and is generating. When you press the switch to 'stop', it interrupts power to that 'run' relay which kills power to ignition and fuel pump, and the generator stops.

If it is indeed a spec 'P'. your correct schematic/wiring diagram should be 611-1146, and the two relays mentioned are K2 and K3 (cube relays in the bottom of the control box). See page 65 of 89 here: https://www.skilledcrafting.com/ona...RV & AUX Genset Wiring Diagrams (06-1989).pdf

Controls service manual here: https://www.skilledcrafting.com/ona...FA BGA NH RV Gen Service manual (01-1983).pdf

Alan

Ok, got it.

6.5NH 3CR-16004P

with s/n J803532336

I checked the coil, and it has continuity. I'll check the condenser on the points today, too.

↓ ▼ ↓ ▼ ↓ ▼ ↓ ▼ ↓ ▼ ↓ ▼ ↓ ▼ ↓ ▼

And, while I've got your attention, does anyone else have trouble with Smokstak loading on their computer/phone?

THis site is horribly slow. No other website I try takes soooooo long to load.

I'm talking minutes....lots of time on my phone, it won't load at all. When a screen does show up on the phone... the ads overpower all the content and I have to "X" them all out to be able to see what I want to view. It's annoying as hell.

No other website do I have this problem with.

I thought maybe I had done something wrong in the past and that a moderator had put some sort of restriction on my account to slow down my posting abilities.

JoeE. said:

When a screen does show up on the phone... the ads overpower all the content and I have to "X" them all out to be able to see what I want to view. It's annoying as hell.

Click to expand...

Agreed.

There's a thread on here somewhere on how to fix this. I'm not sure where. Something I need to get a roundtuit on my IPhone too.

JoeE. said:

And, while I've got your attention, does anyone else have trouble with Smokstak loading on their computer/phone?

THis site is horribly slow. No other website I try takes soooooo long to load.

I'm talking minutes....lots of time on my phone, it won't load at all. When a screen does show up on the phone... the ads overpower all the content and I have to "X" them all out to be able to see what I want to view. It's annoying as hell.

No other website do I have this problem with.

I thought maybe I had done something wrong in the past and that a moderator had put some sort of restriction on my account to slow down my posting abilities.

Click to expand...

No trouble here loading on either cell phone or desktop.

You need an ad blocker on your browser. Let me suggest Firefox browser and the Ad Block Plus extension. This gets rid of all the ads, and you don't use the data to load ads on your cell phone. Make sure your browser blocks all third party cookies. Set the browser to delete all cookies and site data when it closes. This prevents tracking. You can set exceptions to your favorite sites such as Smokstak so you do not need to sign in every time you go to the site. People using an ad blocker see the internet in a whole different way than people who don't.

But the best reason for using an ad blocker ( especially if you are using Windoz for an opearting system ) is sometimes hackers compromise an ad server site that supplies ads to this and other websites. This can lead to malware installing itself on your computer.

Ok, got it.

6.5NH 3CR-16004P with s/n J803532336

Kevin K said:

No trouble here loading on either cell phone or desktop.

You need an ad blocker on your browser. Let me suggest Firefox browser and the Ad Block Plus extension. This gets rid of all the ads, and you don't use the data to load ads on your cell phone. Make sure your browser blocks all third party cookies. Set the browser to delete all cookies and site data when it closes. This prevents tracking. You can set exceptions to your favorite sites such as Smokstak so you do not need to sign in every time you go to the site. People using an ad blocker see the internet in a whole different way than people who don't.

But the best reason for using an ad blocker ( especially if you are using Windoz for an opearting system ) is sometimes hackers compromise an ad server site that supplies ads to this and other websites. This can lead to malware installing itself on your computer.

Click to expand...

I use ad blocker on my desktop.. I know it works because YouTube is always telling me that I need to disable my ad blocker so they can install ads.. I just log in incognito to bypass that.. but, still, it's just this website... no other website does what this website is doing..

Maybe there is something causing friction between Chrome browser and this site.

I switched over to microsoft edge on my phone for a minute, and it loaded right up.

But, I don't want to get used to some other browser....

I accessed the site using "incognito" with chrome... and it opened up instantly!!!!
It behaved just like it's supposed to.
I don't know exactly what happens viewing incognito vs. not incognito... but I had to "log in" from incognito to type this message edit. But, when I did that, things slowed right back down. I clicked on the "edit" word... and it would just set there and buffer... for 45 seconds, then it quit doing that and just sat there.
I finally "paused" adblock" to see if that helped...it didn't. Then I clicked back on the adblock logo and it said "you may have to refresh your page to get this to work right (not their exact terminology). Did that, and clicked on "edit" and it buffered for about 10 seconds and finally allowed me to edit this. After I finish typing, hit send... it sends me this message after about 5 seconds.

After all this, I've determined that the only way to read this forum is in an incognito window, and you'd better have a good reason to post something because it's going to be a long drawn out process.